Depending on how you prune ever-bearers, you can have an extended period when the berries are produced, which is nice if you want some all summer long for your breakfast cereal. Search for it at catalog.
This university research-based publication lists many varieties available, along with disease resistance and how well it performs in the region, along with photos.
Carol Savonen is a naturalist and writer. She is an associate professor emeritus at OSU and tends a large garden in the Coast Range Hills west of Philomath with her husband and dogs. She can be reached at Carol. Savonen ore gonstate. Facebook Twitter Email. The first step in growing raspberries is choosing the right type for you. There are two different categories of raspberries: Summer-bearing and fall-bearing also called everbearing.
Summer-bearing plants produce one big crop of fruits in late summer. Fall-bearing plants produce two crops a year: one in early autumn and a smaller crop early the next summer. Raspberries come in three common colors: red varieties such as 'Latham' , 'Autumn Bliss' , and ' Heritage' , black varieties such as 'Blackhawk' and 'Bristol' , not to be mistaken with blackberries , and yellow varieties such as 'Honeyqueen' and 'Fallgold'.
In general, red raspberries are stronger, hardier, and more productive than the black and yellow raspberry plants. Raspberries are vigorous growers and will produce runners that fill up a bed. Choose a spot in full sun where the plant will get at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and well-drained soil ; dig in some compost to give them a jump-start.
You can buy raspberries bare-root in the spring or as container-grown plants for spring, summer, or autumn planting. Regardless, plant the canes branches 20 inches apart and rows 5 feet apart. The canes will fill in all the available spaces, and all you need to do is dig up those that venture out into the path.
Raspberry plants are hardy in USDA Zones , so once they're established, you don't have to worry about replanting them each year. Raspberries grow feet high; it isn't necessary to trellis them as long as you have room for the canes to arch slightly as the fruit ripens. Keep the area around the base of raspberry plants free of weeds to prevent them having to compete for water and nutrients. Keeping the area weeded will also reduce the potential for insect and disease problems. Red and yellow raspberry plants send up shoots or suckers in places you would least expect.
If you discover suckers outside the area intended for your raspberry plants, cut them to the ground. Remember, those suckers are attached to spreading roots, so it's a good idea to use a shovel to sever the roots. This will likely be a regular task for the raspberry grower. Raspberries grow vigorously and need annual pruning. This keeps the plants looking good, increases productivity and reduces the chance of diseases. After the last harvest, cut all canes that have produced fruit to ground level and remove them.
This eliminates a disease source and gives primocanes more room to grow. If only a fall crop is desired, cut all canes off at the base before growth begins in spring. Fruit will be produced on primocanes in late summer or fall. To get both fall and summer crops, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries.
The primocanes that produced the fall crop should not be removed, as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips. Raspberries of all colors are ready to pick when their color is developed and the fruit is plump and tender. Another indicator of ripeness is when the fruit comes off the plant easily when gently pulled. Right after picking, place raspberries in the fridge.
If your fridge tends to dry out produce, lightly cover the container. Raspberries don't store for very long, usually just a few days. Don't wash berries until you're ready to eat them; the moisture will cause them to break down more quickly. Keeping plants healthy and well-cared-for is the best strategy for preventing a host of issues.
When issues do arise, it is important to look closely at what you are seeing. Where is the damage located: leaves or fruit, primocanes or floricanes? Correct diagnosis is key in taking the right steps to address problems as they arise. Rabbits are partial to raspberry canes in winter and will eat them, thorns and all, right down to the ground or the snow line.
This is particularly damaging for summer-bearing raspberries, while fall-bearing raspberries are typically mowed down every spring anyway. A simple chicken wire fence around your raspberry plants should protect them from rabbits throughout the winter. To properly diagnose pest problems on raspberry plants, it is important to understand the normal growth pattern of these plants.
When trying to identify what is killing leaves or canes, always check to see if the symptoms are on the primocanes or floricanes. Since floricanes die in the middle of summer, yellow and dying leaves on floricanes after June is considered normal, but yellow leaves on primocanes may indicate a problem.
Diseases can be limited by planting certified disease-free plants, destroying wild or abandoned brambles near the garden, and removing weak and diseased plants in established plantings. One of the most effective measures is to improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds. Keep an eye out for spots, discoloration, parts of the plants dying, or moldy growth on leaves or fruit.
Cane blight is a common reason for the dieback of canes on raspberries. Disease lesions near the base of the cane cutoff water and nutrient transport to the rest of the cane, causing it to die. In ripe fruit, gray mold may not appear until after picking and spreads quickly in a container. To manage this disease, plant in narrow rows, remove weeds often and thin plantings that have become overgrown. In strawberry patches with a history of gray mold, remove and discard all straw in early spring.
Replace with fresh straw or other organic mulch. In raspberries, phytophthora crown and root rot causes canes to die back, due to an infection at the crown, or base, of the canes. The crown is located at or just beneath the soil surface. Phytophthora infection causes brown discoloration on the outside and inside of the crown.
It thrives in wet soils. Positive confirmation of phytophthora infection is necessary before diagnosing and treating it. Dig up and submit an infected crown to the Plant Disease Clinic for diagnosis. Hot days with strong sunlight may cause sunscald on berries forming white or colorless drupelets the small, individual, seed-containing parts of each berry. The white drupelets will be flavorless, but there is no harm in eating them.
Once the weather cools, plants will produce normal berries. Heat can also cause berries to ripen faster than you can pick them, which can attract insects. Pick ripe fruit immediately. Very few raspberry varieties are completely hardy in Minnesota. Even hardy varieties can exhibit symptoms of winter injury following severe winters.
Winter injury can also occur after winters when the temperature fluctuates between mild and extremely cold. Winter injury is often confused with cane blight, but it has symptoms that are different from other diseases.
Raspberries that produce flowers and fruit on first year canes primocanes will always show some dieback in the spring. Dieback in fall-bearing raspberries is normal and is not considered winter injury.
Flowering in primocanes always starts at the tips of the canes and later flowers sprout lower in the cane. Any part of the cane that produces flowers will die in the winter. Always choose varieties that are suitable for your zone in Minnesota. Leaf spot, spur blight, cane blight and anthracnose can make raspberries more susceptible to winter injury. Healthy plants will survive the Minnesota winters better.
What a great opportunity to share your raspberry plants with friends! Raspberries grow by throwing up new canes each year; because the canes are biennial, they live only two years. If the container cannot accommodate these multiple new canes, the plant will begin to die back and fail to thrive.
Plant them the same way you would if you were growing raspberries in raised beds or directly in the garden: Place the bareroot plants about 1 ft. Shelley has been writing and editing garden stories for 10 years, and has a Master Gardeners certificate in Oregon.
By Shelley Hoose Updated July 13, Related Articles.
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